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Brake Dance
Installation (continued)


Now you get to put on the bracket. You will line it up with the caliper bolts toward the rear of the car. Bolt it up using the four bolts that you have from removing the drums. I painted the brackets with black caliper paint to avoid rusting. Bolts up nice and looks almost stock. Grease up the spindle.


Time for the rotor. I bought new inner and outer bearing so I had to pack them with fresh grease. Put the large inner bearing in the back of the rotor and install your new bearing seal. Make sure you don't bend it and that it is a tight seal. Lube the edge of the seal with just a touch of grease from your finger so it will slide on the spindle nicely. Then put the rotor on with some attention so that it fits flush. Then put on the smaller outer bearing, out bearing washer, and then nut. Tighten and back off ¼ turn. Check to make sure the rotor can rotate and is not too tight but no so loose that there is play. Add the nut lock, cotter pin, and dust cap.


Alright get the caliper out and the second larger ring that you got from Scarebird. Put some brake quiet lube on the inside lip of the ring. Then put the ring on the piston of the caliper. It can only go on one way so you really can't mess it up. If you do it right it should stay on.

A close up of the caliper spacer ring.

Then get your pads out and add brake quiet lube to the back sides and load them on the caliper.

This is the moment you have been waiting for. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and slide the caliper on. It should line up just perfect. I was very surprised at how well everything fit together. Also, make sure the caliper is on the correct side - with the bleed screw at the top. This photo shows the bleed screw at the bottom, which is incorrect! The calipers can, unfortuantely, be mounted this way but you'll have trouble bleeding the brakes free of air.

As a extra note, I measured the OFFSET from the spindle arm to the edge of the drum and the spindle and the edge of the rotor and it is the same at 3.75" so this should not change the way your wheels will fit. However, if you are using stock 14" or even original 15" styled steel wheels, the calipers and larger brakes will not fit! This is a good reason to get new wheels like I did.

The next step is to get all the lines and master cylinder plumbed up. I first removed the brake hose brackets from the fender well. Shown is the remnant stock drum hose that I cut to make removing the drum backing plate easier.

I used a wire brush to clean up the dirty brackets. Now when I had it cleaned up I did a trial fit with the new hoses and found that they didn't fit in the star shaped hole in the bracket. I used Drumel to grind it out a bit so I had a fit.

I painted the brackets with some black Rustoleum and then locked the new rubber hose into place as shown using the lock clip.

I ended up using 15" rubber lines from the 1979 Cadillac Seville as recommend by Scarebird Brakes. With the passenger wheel turned all the way to the right and then to the left shows lots of clearance and no binding. You want a slight 'S' curve in the line as shown to ensure enough length as the suspension travels up and down also.

Now since my car is a 1966 Mustang, it came equipped with the "jelly jar" single resivior master cylinder - a dangerous design since if either front or rear brakes were to develop a leak the entire brake system is rendered useless. I ended up cutting the lines to the original distribution block and ordering new steel lines from the block to the front two wheels.

There are a number of dual master cylinders that can be used in this swap - the key is to get one for a drum rear and disc front setup, as opposed to all four discs. I used a 1974 Maverick master and a Summit propotioning valve to regulate pressure since the drums and discs require differently. The new front brake lines from National Parts Depot (NPD) bolted up to the stock distribution block just fine. I then ran a new 3/8" line from the rear of the master to the open port on the distribution block, using fittings to connect to the master cylinder threads. For the rear lines, I ran new line to the prop valve, then new line under the car about 16", where I cut, flared and spliced into the existing brake line. The prop valve is mounted using a hardware store bracket secured to the firewall with one of the master cylinder bolts.

After filling the master cylinder and following the normal brake bleeding process, and verifying the system was leak free, I bolted up the new 17" Bullit take-off wheels. This front discs look great behind the spokes.

After a few months driving, I can say the brakes feel GREAT! There is no pulling and the response is quick. If you don't have big money for the racing brakes this is a great way to go. I am very impressed with this swap and I believe that anyone with some mechanical knowledge can do it.

 

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Under $500 Disc Brakes
Scarebird Brackets $125
New steel brake lines (NPD) $30
Disc brake master cyl $28
S10 Calipers (Adv. Auto) $12ea
S10 Pads (Adv. Auto) $28
Ranger Rotors (Adv. Auto) $23ea
Brake Hoses (Adv. Auto) $23
Banjo Bolts (Help!) $7
Inner Bearings (Autozone) $11
Outer Bearings (Autozone) $20
Cotter Pins $2
Proportioning Valve (Summit) $35
Dust Caps (Help!) $14
Brake Fluid, fittings, misc. $25
Total $418

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Article Sources

Scarebird Classic Brakes
Scarebird Classic Brakes
207 203rd Place SW
Unit B
Lynnwood, WA 98036
(425)422-0273
www.scarebird.com








 

 

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