Steel Bearing Retainer
The stock, aluminum, bearing retainer will slowly gall and
weaken due to constant friction against the steel shell of
the throwout bearing. If you're using a performance clutch
with heavier spring pressure, the retainer will wear even
faster. Eventually the retainer can fail, leading to clutch
and input shaft failure.
transmission needs to out of the car, and drained of fluid.
The gray discolored area on the first half of the retainer
is due to galling and scratching from the throwout bearing.
Remove the four 1/2" bolts holding the retainer to the
a screw driver in the notch at the sides of the flange
and gently pry the retainer free from its silicone seal.
old retainer will have a bearing race and possibly a shim
ring. Be sure to transfer these to the new retainer.
shim goes in first. The taper (small end) of the race
must face towards the front of the trans. Note the new
retainer should also have a front seal. Don't install
it without one! Lightly coat the race and seal with ATF.
the old silicone off the the case, and also wipe the input
shaft clean of any grease and grime.
a bead of silicone or RTV around the flange of the new
retainer, and slip it over the input shaft. Torque the
bolts down to 18-20 lb.ft.
Shaft Bushing and Seal.
tailshaft bushing should be replaced if you bought your T5
transmission used, or if you are installing a new slip yoke.
The bushing is available from Ford parts dealers for $5 to
$7. The seal can be also be bought from Ford, but the big
parts stores will have it for half the price (about $8.) Unfortunately
the bushing can only be removed with a special puller. (Either
the FORD T5/T56 puller, or a C4/C6 bushing puller.) It also
takes a special "pipe" to knock in the new bushing all the
way. The bottom line is that this is a tool you are not likely
to have, or to find cheap. So you'll need to think ahead on
this one, and call around to transmissions shops and see if
they'll do it for cheap. If you have the transmission out
of the car, our experience is that most shops will perform
the whopping two minute procedure, for free. If you drive
the car in, expect to pay up to an hours worth of labor, since
they'll have to remove the driveshaft and drain/refill the
First of all don't use anything but ATF (Mercon-Dextron II
/ III) in your T5. Unlike many manual transmissions, T5's
do not work with gear oil or MTF. While many people question
the value of synthetics, we've found that the T5 shifts smoother
and there is less grinding with synthetics. Since you are
only going slightly less than three quarts, it's worth spending
the $10. Plus it will last longer and won't need replacing
as often as conventional ATF. We like the Aamco synthetic
blend, but Mobil one full synthetic works great as well for
a few extra dollars.