Coyote Swap: 575HP Blown 5.0 Goes Into Project sidewayS197

Here are the primary components for the Coyote swap into Justin Pawlak’s Mustang: a Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) 5.0-liter crate engine and a ROUSH supercharger.

Power-hungry owners of the 2005-2010 Mustang may have a dilemma on their hands if they’re ready to sink some serious cash and labor into their cars. They could install a leading aftermarket supercharger kit on the 4.6-liter 3-valve V8, or step up to a Coyote swap, and install the 5.0-liter Coyote V8 that became available in the 2011 Mustang.

Justin Pawlak decided to do both with his project car, sidewayS197.

With the basic tune it can blow the tires off whenever I want. — Justin Pawlak, pro drifter

A constant threat on the Formula Drift circuit, Pawlak wanted to build a track worthy but street-friendly Mustang to complement his familiar teal-and-blue 2014 Falken Tire racecar. His choice was a ‘06 Mustang that he picked up with relatively little cash following some clever trades that involved a Jeep and Camaro SS.

“I think it would have been fun to do a full build on a Three-Valve,” says Pawlak. “But that Coyote motor is a great engine and in the end was a better choice.”

Coyote engines are starting to show up more frequently in salvage yards and online classifieds. Ford Racing Performance Parts also offers a few different crate versions of the Coyote, including the beefed-up Aluminator series. The 5.0-liter DOHC engine has already found its way into street rods, early F-100s and some Cobra replicas, although the latter is quite a tight fit with the wide valve covers. First-generation Mustang owners are also discovering that the shock towers need significant surgery before the Coyote can squeeze in, but Fox-body swappers are having less frustrating issues to solve.

As always, it’s somewhat of a balancing act between money and resources, especially involving a late-model platform. However, fear of the Coyote swap shouldn’t be a consideration when starting with the S197 chassis. The engine has the same mounting points as the 4.6L, it’s just a matter of addressing a few details.

“This swap could be done in a weekend,” promises Pawlak.

A 2006 Mustang is the foundation for the project. Pawlak stripped off suspension and front sheetmetal in preparation to remove the stock 4.6-liter 3V engine and transmission.

The engine bay was stripped of most of the factory components except for the master cylinder and brake booster. Although not shown here, the inner fenderwells were trimmed back considerably to give Pawlak easier access to suspension adjustments as well as provide more room for wider tires and more steering angle. Pawlak also cut out the factory headlight brackets and fabricated new ones from aluminum later on in the project. Once the rollcage was installed, the body was shipped off to the paint shop.

Here’s the Coyote crate engine just as it’s unwrapped and ready for prepping.

The Coyote measures just over 29 inches wide and almost 29 inches from the bottom of the pan to the top of the intake manifold. That compares to 24 inches wide for a traditional Ford small-block, 25 inches for the 351 Windsor and 27 inches for a Ford FE big block and 429-460 385 Series engines. Only the Ford 427 SOHC and Boss 429 are wider at 32 and 30 inches, respectively.

Potential for 675 horsepower

This build had to provide both street manners and track prowess, so Pawlak started with the base Coyote engine, which is rated at 420 horsepower, and added a ROUSH Performance Stage 1 supercharger kit for an estimated 575 hp with 505 lb-ft peak torque. ROUSH also offers upgrades that can boost the power to upwards of 675 horsepower using a different blower overdrive pulley and more aggressive calibrations in the PCM. The engine will be backed with a Spec clutch, Tremec 6-speed, and beefed-up 8.8-inch rear axle. Fuel will be sent from an Aeromotive A1000 sending unit mounted in the stock tank. The project car also involved a complete suspension makeover with a full roll cage built by Pawlak’s shop Hot Line Performance, BMR K-member, custom control arms, Race Tech Services knuckles, Feal coil-overs, ROUSH brakes and, of course, Falken tires.

Critical Part Numbers

  • Engine: FRPP M-6007-M50
  • Supercharger: ROUSH 421388
  • Controls Pack: FRPP M-6017-A504V
  • PS pump bracket: FRPP M-8511-M50BR
  • Radiator: FRPP M-8005-MGT
  • Cooling fan: FRPP M-8C607-MSVT
  • Alternator mount: FRPP M-8600-M50BALT
“I had a vision of a drift-style Mustang,” says Pawlak, adding that the build was an opportunity to showcase his shop’s capabilities. “I felt it was time to put together a street car that help me represent my sponsors off the track.”

The Coyote crate motor needed a few modifications before it was ready to mount the supercharger and install in the car. The ’06 Mustang has a belt-driven power steering pump but the 2011-’15 Coyote Mustangs have an electric power steering system. A Ford Racing adaptor bracket was installed on the right side. Pawlak also carried over the ’06 steering rack.

“That was one of my concerns before starting this project. But then I found out Ford Racing already has the bracket,” says Pawlak. “Just mount the 05-09 pump to that bracket and all the lines meet up.”

A Ford Racing alternator kit was also used to locate the alternator on the left side. Finally, some minor grinding is required to relieve a few high points on the front cover to clear the supercharger drive assembly.

Left photo shows the Ford Racing power-steering pump in place. Right photo shows the crate engine after the intake manifold and fuel system were removed.

The front cover must be modified slightly to accept the supercharger belt drive. Two mounting pads and ribs need to be reduced slightly, then a bung needs to be cut in half and trimmed. The ROUSH instructions provide clear directions and illustrations for the installer.

Coyote Crate Engines

The 2014 Ford Racing Performance Parts catalog currently lists four Coyote crate engines available from Ford dealers and other performance outlets.

The standard Coyote crate engine (center photo) that Pawlak used is an all-aluminum 5.0-liter (302 ci) DOHC V8 with a nearly square 3.63 x 3.65 bore/stroke ratio. From the factory it’s rated at 420 horsepower at 6,500 rpm with 390 lb-ft peak torque at 4,250 rpm. Internals include forged-steel crankshaft and rods with hypereutectic pistons. Compression ratio is 11.0:1, and the engine comes with an 8-quart oil pan. The 4-valve heads retain the factory Ti-VCT but a PCM to control the fuel, spark and cam timing is not include. Engine weight is 444 pounds.

The Aluminator crate engine (left photo) is basically a Coyote with some aftermarket durability built in. It features Mahle pistons, Manley H-beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts and Boss 302 connecting rod bearings. Two versions are available: a naturally aspirated model with 11.0:1 compression ratio (PN M-6007-A50NA) and one with a 9.5:1 compression ratio designed for boosted applications (M-6007-A50SC). Both have front covers already modified for supercharger installs.

Finally, there’s the Aluminator XS crate engine (M-6007-A50XS) rated at 500-plus horsepower. It has all the Aluminator upgrades plus more aggressive cams and valve springs, improved oil pump, 12-quart oil pan, Cobra Jet intake, Boss 302 damper and larger fuel injectors.

Clear-cut instructions

“Everything is explained in the ROUSH instructions – where to mark it, where to grind it,” says Pawlak. “To be honest, it was a little intimidating at first because I had a brand new crate engine and then I’m told to grind on the front cover.”

That chore is about the only need for power tools. Of course, air ratchets and cordless drills will make the job much easier, but for the most part a good set of metric wrenches, electrical wiring tools, engine hoist, floor jack and jack stands are all that’s needed. As noted in the shop photos, Pawlak installed the engine from below using a vehicle lift. There are reports on the Internet that some installations have been very difficult trying to drop the engine down from the top. Headers have to be removed and in at least once situation, the stock K-member had to be loosened and dropped to provide enough room for the engine to be positioned properly. So, while it’s possible to complete this swap in a driveway with jacks and a cherry picker, access to a vehicle lift will definitely save time and possibly a lot of frustration.

The Coyote’s intake manifold and fuel system are completely replaced by the supercharger kit. The ROUSH system includes an intercooler with a standalone coolant system that features a pump, reservoir and heat exchanger. The Roots-style, positive-displacement supercharger is a R2300 TVS series with twin 4-lobe, 160-degree-twist rotors. It comes with a twin 60mm throttle body, ROUSH-designed upper and lower intake manifolds and high-flow fuel rail with 47-pound injectors.

“It’s a very inclusive kit and very easy to install. I just bolted it back on the engine,” says Pawlak, admitting that the job was considerably easier with the engine out of the car. (A full story on installing the supercharger kit in a late-model Mustang can be found by following this link.) “There was a lot of stuff I didn’t have to do because I was starting with a crate motor. But everything is labeled and easy to understand. The quality of the kit is second to none.”

Here’s the ROUSH supercharger kit. It includes all the mounting hardware, new fuel fuel system, pulleys, belts, heat exchanger, hoses, connections, throttle body, coolant tank and brackets to perform the installation. The supercharger comes with a 3-year/36,000-mile parts-only warranty, and ROUSH offers optional complete drivetrain warranties at an additional cost.

A BOSS 302 bracket locates the alternator on the left side of the engine. One belt drives the alternator and water pump (shown) while another belt will drive the supercharger and power-steering pump, which is mounted where the AC compressor is normally positioned.

The controls pack from Ford Racing provides a trouble-free Coyote or N/A Aluminator swap with a manual transmission. It includes the PCM with Ford Racing calibration, accelerator pedal, harness, OBD-II diagnostic port, power distribution module, air box, inlet tube, MAF sensor and O2 sensors.

Going in from below

Making the Coyote crate engine swap a real plug-and-play project is the Ford Controls Pack. Even if you pulled a 5.0L engine from the salvage yard and took the late-model PCM, it may not mate with the other computers in the car. The control pack includes a new PCM with a performance calibration along with a power distribution module that takes care of relays for fans and other accessories. Again, the instruction manual is easy to follow with clear illustrations.

The PCM is set up to work with a return fuel line. Pawlak installed a new Aeromotive sending unit in the stock tank and routed -8 AN lines to satisfy the engine’s thirst.

Here’s the ROUSH supercharger installed on the Coyote crate engine. From the rear, note the SPEC clutch and the factory 5.0-liter Mustang GT tubular exhaust manifolds. Also note in the right photo that the engine has been lowered onto the BMR tubular K-member and secured using new Coyote motor mounts.

Access to a full lift made the swap very easy. Pawlak loaded the engine and K-member combination on a pallet lift and moved it under the Mustang body. That’s Darin Burgess on the right helping line it up.

The body was then lowered slowly as K-member is lined up and bolted to the chassis. In the worm’s-eye view, note how the new motor mounts and how there is plenty of clearance for the oil pan and other components, although the power-steering pump has yet to be installed.

Getting the Wiring Right

Here’s are Pawlak’s notes on the wiring modifications necessary for his swap:

  • For getting the gauges to work you need to connect the HS CAN ( ) and (-) from the controls pack to the OBDII port on on the factory chassis harness: HS CAN ( ) to HS CAN ( ) and HS CAN (-) to HS CAN (-).
  • For getting the speedo to work we connected the transmission OSS via a pigtail harness from the (Tremec) to the trans plug on the ECU, which will be from the factory harness: (key C) pin 3 for signal return and pin 41 for sensor ground.
  • For getting the oil pressure gauge and sensor to work you need to wire the GN/WH wire from the Coyote engine harness to pin E-25 on the ECU plug (key E).
As mentioned earlier, Pawlak removed the HVAC, so he had room under the dash to mount the PCM, power distribution module and relocate the fuse box.

“Had I left it all alone, the new PCM would bolt right up to the factory location,” says Pawlak. “There are some small wiring adjustments needed, some re-pinning a couple wires to tap into the CAN bus. Also to hook up the oil-pressure and speed sensors.”

The bigger, more powerful engine also required a cooling upgrade, so Pawlak installed a Ford Racing radiator, shroud and fan. Because the heater core was removed, Pawlak did have to modify one of the coolant lines to maintain the correct circulation through the engine.

Views from the top clearly show the painted engine bay and where the inner fenders were cut out as well as the engine’s comfortable fit.

The Ford Racing radiator is shown installed along with a new shroud, overflow tank and supercharger intercooler reservoir. Center photo is the water pump for the intercooler system mounted in front of the intercooler heat exchanger. Far right photo shows how all the hoses and coolant lines are dedicated to this application and most have arrows or markings to help the installer.

Finishing up

The Ford control pack is designed for a manual transmission, which Pawlak wanted from the start for drifting exhibitions. For those desiring an automatic, the best bet is a stand-alone conversion using an older model transmission – and that would be recommended for street-rod or musclecar applications. A late-model automatic requires the matching PCM and harness, which again can complicate matters when hooking up to the wiring in a modern Mustang. Pawlak is going with a Tremec T-56 Magnum 6-speed behind a SPEC clutch. The ’06 project car came with a manual transmission but Pawlak replaced the entire hydraulic clutch system for peace of mind and even upgraded to GT500 slave cylinder and Ford Racing hard line. The current 3.55:1 gearset will also be replaced with a 3.73:1 ring and pinion mounted to a FR500S differential with the axle housing being located with a Whiteline watts link.

Top Row: Pawlak relocated the fuse box to the cabin under the dash. He also pulled the passenger airbag and modified the cover to allow quick access to the fuses. Shown resting against the transmission tunnel is the new power distribution module that eventually was tucked in under the dash. Right photo shows the new Ford Racing PCM in place. Bottom Row: Here's a finished look at the interior. Note the easy access to OBD II port and controls through the glove box.

A finishing touch is a ROUSH Extreme Performance Catback exhaust.

“It’s such a crisp-sounding car, a real impressive sound,” says Pawlak, who would know the sound of a wicked engine as his drift car sports a Roush-Yates 410 Ford V8 built off the famed engine builder’s sprint-car platform and makes around 870 horsepower with 700 lb-ft peak torque. “Right now with the basic tune it can blow the tires off whenever I want. It’s definintely spirited driving and a ton of fun to drive.”

Because the PCM was relocated inside the cabin, Pawlak had to extend the wiring harness about 18 inches. Right photo shows the new wires neatly bundled and ready for a factory style loom. Also note the switch to Roush valve covers.

Future considerations after initial break-in include a Roush Stage 2 or 3 upgrade that drives the supercharger harder and modifies the tune. It’s also slated for a few dyno runs to confirm power numbers.

“I’m looking at 625 to 650 at the rear wheels,” vows Pawlak.

Here’s the finished engine bay. Because the inner fenders were cut out, there was no way to utilize the cold-air box that comes with the supercharger kit. But Pawlak retained the Roush inlet tube that supports the MAF sensor and only had to fashion a new bracket to support the tube and air cleaner.

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About the author

Mike Magda

Mike Magda is a veteran automotive writer with credits in publications such as Racecar Engineering, Hot Rod, Engine Technology International, Motor Trend, Automobile, Automotive Testing Technology and Professional Motorsport World.
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