I’m now focusing on Sheet Metal replacement.  Since I’m putting so much time, effort and $$$s into this project, if the sheet metal is anything but perfect, I’m replacing it.  The doors for example, had no damage or visible rust…. but what about the “unknown”… like corrosion in the seams just waiting to pop out in a year or two??  I’ll sell the doors to someone wanting good Ford original doors while I’ll install new ones.  After all, two new doors can be had for under $600.  Also, my door windows were the glue in type.  Early built ’70 Mustangs had the glue in, while the later ones had bolt-in.  My fastback was built in late August of 1969.   Since the glue was old and some being loose, I’m converting my windows over to the new bolt-in.  Again, I’ll sell the original Ford window glass and window hardware.

OK, back to the sheet metal work.  I started with the right passenger side floor plan.  I’ll do one side at a time to help ensure parts not being removed won’t shift or move for me, like the floor tunnel.

I'm plasma cutting the floor pan out to make way for new ones. I'll do one side at a time.

New right side floor pan and front lower part of the firewall tacked in place. Now on to the Drivers side floor pan.

For extra rigidity, I decided to go with a one piece seat base.  I figured with a beast of an engine putting out crazy HP and torque, the more bracing the better.  I’ll have to modify the carpeting and trim the center console…. but that’s all part of a RestoMod!  Since the new seat base just came in, I couldn’t wait to “dry fit” it in place.  Before I do the final seat base install, I need to complete the welding of the floor pans and paint the floor pans so they aren’t bare metal.

After spot welding the new right floorpan, I wanted to dry fit the new single piece seat base which will offer greater rigidity than the stock seat bases. Some trimming of the console will be required.

While removing the tail lights and rear bumper, it was obvious something damaged the right rear of the Mustang.  So to make it perfect, I decided to replace the right fender extension, tail light panel and rear cross brace member along with the entire trunk sheet metal.  I’ll also replace about 10″ of the lower outside wheel well on each side and the lower ~13″ of each Quarter Panel.

Once the tail lights and bumper were removed, it was obvious the right rear of the car had damage. So, I decided to replace the tail light and rear support along with all trunk sheet metal.

Cutting out the front trunk floor

After using a reciprocating saw to cut along the frame rail, we knocked out the corners for the final cut and removal.

Final steps with trunk sheet metal... chiseling out the spot welds

And finally the front…

I just completed the removal of the front right apron and radiator support. I'll also remove the front cross rail for the radiator that ties the two frame rails together. All were damaged from leaking battery acid for the past 40+ years.

So, stay tuned…. new metal going in.  Yesterday, it hit 97 deg’s… pretty damn hot in a metal shop garage!!  One good thing about the garage (and there are many) is the front/rear drive through garage doors…. i.e., when both doors are open, I get a very good breeze to help cool things (me) down.

I have most of my parts in now.  Corbeau front seats arrive today, along with some metal parts.  I have the new radiator, puller fans, Flame River steering column, Classic Auto A/C, headers, hydraulic clutch master cylinder, new pwr brake can clutch pedals, etc. etc.  I pick up my engine on July 5th.  We’re dynoing it at Jon Kaase’s shop that day and I’ll be there to see and record it all.  That will be an exciting day for me.  Then once I dry fit the engine, I can start to “fit” all the other parts so I can complete my fabrication…..  You know what they say…. So much to do, So little time.

Mark